Being a restaurant reviewer is usually an advantage. I get to explore new places, treat friends to meals (as long as they put up with my incessant analysis) and have a built-in excuse to escape my own kitchen. But one of the disadvantages is that I feel ethically constrained from consorting with restaurant owners, staff or chefs — and that’s a shame because I think the Oakroom’s Todd Richards is someone I’d really like to party with.

I’d like to meet Richards because, judging from recent visits to the Oakroom, he seems to be the kind of chef who is interested in exploring new ways of cooking, and has most likely studied the techniques of restaurants and chefs that I admire, such as Thomas Keller of French Laundry in the Napa Valley and Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea. Plus, the man serves up a mean sweetbread — and anybody who does that is more than OK in my book.

Richards took over the Oakroom’s kitchen after the resignation of Walter Leffler in February 2005. The dining room is still the same — turned scrollwork and wood paneling on mirrored walls, stencils of oak leaves and acorns on the beams, red and beige upholstered chairs and banquette sofas, and rose-filled julep cups on the white tablecloths. And the Oakroom still has its odd acoustics, where overheard conversations come not from nearby tables, but from those across the room.

But Richards has put his own stamp on the institution, managing to bring a new spirit to the hotel kitchen. As an example of this balancing act, he has recast the Oakroom menu as a series of “tastings,” ranging from three-course “a la carte” to a full-bore “blind tasting.” (Menu prices range from $45 for a four-course vegetable tasting to $180 for the blind tasting of more than 10 courses with wine pairings.) You can also order full-serve items such as a 24-ounce porterhouse or venison osso buco a la carte.

Highlights from my recent experience there included a “surf and turf” of poached lobster tail with buffalo short rib. Accompanied by a salt cod risotto cake, this inventive dish featured tender, boneless rib meat graced with a heart of palm and red wine sauce, juxtaposed with a serving of lobster tail on a bed of sweet sautéed cabbage. The hearty buffalo was spiced with cinnamon, and the risotto cake provided a crisp transition between the aromatic rib and the sweet lobster meat.

Another standout combination was a seared breast of duck with duck leg confit and red currant sauce. This layered dish appealed to the eye as well as the palate; the succulent duck breast and boned leg confit were prettily topped with a fried quail egg and a bit of asparagus with hollandaise sauce. I was quite taken with the blend of intense flavors — the sweet gaminess of the duck, the salty crunch of confit, plus the added richness from the delicately fried egg — all enhanced by a bit of sweetness from the red currant sauce. In fact, I think sweetness is a quality that Richards brings out especially well in his dishes.

A coffee-dusted piece of seared foie gras nicely illustrated this skill. Served on a crusty rectangle of “Texas toast,” the sumptuous piece of goose liver came surrounded with thick coffee syrup, adding an intriguing bittersweet quality to the natural sweetness of the meltingly soft foie gras. A small cup of cappuccino came with it, cleansing my palate between bites and further bringing out the sugary side of this classic presentation.

As I said, my impression is that Richards is very interested in the techniques of other top-quality chefs. I definitely thought of this as I was enjoying a plate of exquisitely prepared vegetables, including arugula greens, tiny Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, matched with tender sweet potato fritters. The vegetables, all distinct and yet blending together, all requiring separate treatments to so that they could perfectly harmonize, reminded me of the gargouillou of vegetables I’ve enjoyed at Michel Bras’ restaurant in Laguiole, France — so much so, in fact, that I wouldn’t be surprised if Richards has the same souvenir cookbook I do. (But unlike me, he’s dared to match the technique, which is why he’s a chef and I’m only a humble critic.)

After these “tastes,” I came to regard Richards’ approach to every dish as well-balanced and ambitious. I think he’s definitely one of the top chefs in Louisville today. However, I can’t say the same for the Oakroom’s wait staff. It’s not that the service was bad (although it seemed that parts of my dinner were oddly paced). The waiters were uniformly polite and informative, but there was a lack of awareness and enthusiasm about what they were presenting. I’ve been to other places where the servers were excited and energized to be a part of a top-notch culinary experience, and the Oakroom servers fell far short of that level.

That little sour note did not impede my enjoyment of the Oakroom’s desserts, though. A banana pudding egg roll came with a rose macaroon and vanilla bean ice cream. It was a wonderful twist on a Southern tradition, with the roll playfully turning perfectly creamy banana pudding into finger food. I also enjoyed a fine chocolate tart with macerated cherries and a stunning crème brûlée.

By the time you read this, the Oakroom menu will have changed, as it frequently does. So while I can’t say exactly what you’ll enjoy from Richard’s kitchen, I think I can safely predict that you will have a memorable experience.

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